THIS SITE IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY! WE DON'T SELL ITEMS ANY MORE.

At the request of customers, we've experimented with a quick attach-detach method for removal of grips for summer. This info is strictly experimental but we've had excellent feedback so far. We are just providing this for those competent tinkerers who want to know this cool trick.... a little time and no cost involved. This technique can be used only on the following models: 475-875 ATV or Street 475-100 ATV or Street 525-875 ATV or Street 525-100 ATV or Street 575-875 ATV or Street 575-100 ATV (575-100 Street model is not sold)
Installing Left Hot Grip® to enable quick future removal. Suitable for handlebars with end-weights only. Use common steel hanger wire. CAUTION: When drilling holes, wear appropriate eye safety protection.
Drill 1st hole the diameter of your metal coat hanger wire about 1/2" in from left handlebar end. We found a .089" drill worked well for our coat hangers. We recommend drilling at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock (otherwise when you drill the holes the metal debris could drop in your eyes). Take a 5-6" section of common metal coat hanger wire, bend one end at a 90 degree angle with the short leg being about 1/4" long. Insert it in the 1st hole on the handlebar, aiming the long end of the wire towards the switch housing. Shorten the wire if needed to not hit the switch housing. Note that there are deep and shallow grooves in the inside of the left Hot Grip®. Determine where you want the wire exit of the grip to be, usually aiming downward toward the ground, and push the grip onto the left handlebar with the wire aligning with one of the deeper grooves. Push grip on until it reaches the end of the wire, and mark wire end location on the handlebar. Remove grip and drill your second hole. Bend the wire to fit into the 2nd hole as shown. Slide grip on about 3/8" and mark where you can locate a 2nd hole, aligning it with another deep groove in the grip, generally one 180 degrees opposite the first two holes you drilled. Then insert your original bent wire that was 5" long, with the single bend in it, and repeat the steps 1 through 3. After inserting another properly bent wire in the second pair of holes, install the grip, and use your handlebar end weight to prevent any outward movement in the grip. If moving the grip fully toward the switch housing leaves a gap on either end of the grip, then you need to improvise to prevent the movement. Various means of preventing this movement include physical stops such as wrapping black electrical tape repeatedly with the tape cut to the proper gap width you need. A slight kink in the metal coat hanger wire will add tension or tightness to the installation. You may have to experiment with the slight kink to get it right. The grip is now secured both against rotational movement, and outward movement, yet can be removed without damaging the grip. You can remove it for the summer if you wish. On the throttle side, remove the grip with the throttle tube that it was epoxied to, and replace the throttle tube with another from your dealer. They are generally quite inexpensive. Example: $3. for a Harley Davidson stock throttle tube. See Custom Chrome Catalog at the link: http://customchromecatalog.com/2012/full.asp?page=151

Important: Do NOT use this method if you are unable to secure the grip from moving outboard with a device such as a large diameter bar end-weight. An example of an acceptable alternative would be to drill and tap a 6mm hole in the end of a solid handlebar, (such as the Honda Gold Wing) to install a fender-washer that has a 1/4" hole with a 1" outer diameter, and to install it through the outboard end of the grip to the threaded handlebar hole. Do NOT secure the grip by drilling a hole in the grip as there are heating wires throughout.